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Casual ConversationLTR. I had my two baby girls with me and we all were showing photos of each others pups throughout the conversation. I miss our silly games on the slopes, and sneaking off into the trees.


Or you may have scaled it already. Thus, the question is: Not in this sport, my friend! Things are a bit more complicated than that. First off, you definitely have to decide on which route to go for. And probably the easiest, for that matter and is thus the route which most guides choose.

Here are some of the popular routes up Matterhorn credit to summitpost. So, now let us turn our attention to what you have to consider before hitting this meter hill. Those who climb Matterhorn without a guide will have scaled some of the other notorious peaks — unguided.

Stuff like Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, Dom and some of the more technical routes on these. Have a go on Castor or Pollux before you put the cash down for Matterhorn. Most guides will require you try one of these mountains with them anyway. They just go better with crampons and they climb better due to stiffer soles and sharper edges. Then, when the weather and your mojo are up for it, attack the Matterhorn from Zermatt in two or three days.

You may want to try a more difficult route up the Matterhorn or have a look at Dufourspitze a few valleys away. So, is the Matterhorn climb on your to-do list? How much time do you need to prepare?

Or are you put off by the hype and the crowds? Hey Liz, the RSS is right here: Trying solo, I returned from Solway hut. The massive scale, rock type, route finding, altitude effect, unreliable weather, crowds, everything…. Matterhorn i still on my to-do-list. I, like many others before me, have falling in love with this mountain. And without a guide. Plan to climb Hornli route doing lots of grade 3 scrambles like Cnefion arete in snowdonia, also some climbing at severe level on rock. Go for it Mike!

Hi Dan, can you give me some advice on scaling the hornli route. I keep hearing comments on difficult route finding at the start in the dark whats your opinion? My strongest area is in descent. Can I abseil some of it?

Hey Mike, sure thing… So: What you can do is hike up to the start of the route the previous afternoon and check things out in daylight. Yes, you can abseil some parts and there are fix ropes, metal rods to put your rope around and some places for slings….

You really should start no later than 4am, as the afternoon can get stormy. In fact, what makes this a subjectively dangerous hill is people passing and kicking rocks on one another. How long up and down? It was well worth the effort. I used a guide on the Hornli route on October 1st … late to be climbing this mountain.

I was lucky with weather. A warm week melted the verglass from the week before. Our climb was clear, warm, and … with NO other climbers in the morning! Do your preparation, hire a good guide, and that incredible climb is there for the taking. There are plenty of good reasons for this: Yea Alex, some Swiss guides allow only 2 hours for clients to make it to Solvay Hut. Excellent article and easy to understand explanation.

How do I go about getting permission to post part of the article in my upcoming news letter? Giving proper credit to you the author and link to the site would not be a problem. Anyone done Hornli unguided?? I plan to do it at end August , and really dont like the idea of a guided ascent at all.

Without sounding too cocky i prefer to rely on my own instincts, fitness,skill, experience etc. Having said that, I would value opinions. Mike, depends on what experience you have.

But if so, why do you ask? Soloing Matteerhorn is, well, dangerous. Guides want to go fast. Thank you for the good writeup. It in fact was once a entertainment account it. Glance complex to more brought agreeable from you! By the way, how can we keep in touch? I was wondering, when you say there are fixed ropes what exactly does this mean? I have never done a popular route like this, mostly untouched rock and snow.

Are these ropes anchored in at top and bottom and you simply clip into them and re-clip every few meters? Hi Zack, Yes, these ropes are anchored in at the top and the bottom as well. I did the Hornli Ridge with a guide in July It was a superb experience, though I have to admit the one drawback was the crowd.

I was up in just under five hours, but due to a recent snow, we had crampons on a little longer than usual. I was 48 and not quite as physically prepared as I should have been.

There are all manner of aids along the route — ropes, eye-bolts, even chains. Yes, a lot of opportunities to abseil on the descent. My guide had to help a lot of people who were lost. On Summitpost there is a lot of bashing of the Matterhorn.

I did the Weisshorn for my 50th birthday and I think the Matterhorn was more difficult and more fun even though I was in better shape for the Weisshorn, reputed to be more challenging. Last word — the website said at least one liter of water. More like two plus in my opinion. Hi, i am 41 years old and have a chance to visit matterhorn early october.

Would it be possible to find guide and climb matterhorn early october? I have experience in island peak himalaya meter and climbing the rock of carstensz pyramid indonesia.

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